Buckfastleigh

Heart of Devon's Favourite Tourist Attractions

Welcome to Buckfastleigh and Buckfast -  historic mill town and Abbey site    situated on the southern edge of  Dartmoor National Park.  We hope this booklet will help you make the most of your visit and give you an insight into this beautiful part of Devon.

Buck-tied-fast-in-the-leigh

The name Buckfast means "stronghold" - a place where deer and buck were held.  "Leigh" is the open pasture, which would have belonged to Buckfast.  There has always been a strong link between the two settlements, although Buckfast probably existed before Buckfastleigh.

The name of Buckfastleigh is also of lexicographical interest since it contains half the letters of the alphabet, none of which are repeated.

Monastic settlement

Buckfastleigh's origins are obscure.   It may have begun as a key settlement of the Cistercian Abbey of nearby Buckfast.  As a market town, it seems not to have been successful.  By 1801, the market had long ceased to exist and an attempt to revive it that year was short-lived.

In 1018, a Benedictine Abbey was founded at nearby Buckfast and endorsed by King Canute in the same year.  In 1148, the Abbey became a Cistercian monastery and remained so until the Dissolution in 1539.  The present impressive Abbey Church was consecrated in 1932.  The new church and monastery were built by monks of a community of French Benedictines.  Throughout England, the Cistercians were associated with sheep husbandry and the wool trade.

A Town of Woollen Mills

Surrounded by water and nestling on the edge of Dartmoor made Buckfastleigh an ideal location for wool production.  Early settlers were attracted by the moor, which provided good pasture for the sheep.  The rivers Dart and Mardle and the Dean Burn, provided the abundance of water necessary for processing and dyeing the fleeces.

About five mills were in operation in the 16th century and two serge mills are recorded in 1850, together with 300 woolcombers.  The peak of the Town's industrial prosperity was reached in the late 19th century, when there were at one time, five blanket, serge and combing mills, as well as corn and paper mills and a tannery.  The same period saw a significant amount of building in the town, including modest worker's cottages and public buildings. 

Some of the original businesses still exist in the area and other mill buildings have been utilised for newer industries.  The surviving section of the wooden millrace is still used to supply the tannery with water from the River Mardle and can be seen in Market Street.

'from blending to washing and weaving, spinning right through to the finished cloth.  From the sheep's back to the man's back' 

(Reminiscences from Townspeople)

19th Century Townscape

The town plan is very interesting.  Historically, there were four discrete elements: the Abbey, set within its own precincts on the west bank of the River Dart, the isolated 13th century parish church, and Higher and Lower Town.  Although there are similarities between Higher and Lower Town, they do show different characteristics.  The core of Higher Town presents an almost unaltered 19th century townscape.  In Lower Town, the buildings along Fore Street are mainly outwardly late 18th - early 19th century in date and character.

As recently as the mid 19th century, Higher and Lower Town were separate settlements.  Both are centred on a single thoroughfare (Market Street and Fore Street), with buildings along the street frontages, and long, narrow burgage plots extending back from them.  Subsequent development of the Town, particularly down these plots, has given rise to narrow alleyways at right angles to the main streets leading to courts behind.  They show a variety of styles, shapes and sizes, and roof heights vary, all adding great visual interest to the area.

'Higher towners and lower towners.  The boys used to be in gangs against each other…always having scraps.'

The Ruined Holy Trinity Church

On the top of the hill stands the ruined parish church.  Built in the 13th century,  (the spire being a later addition), it was destroyed by fire on the night of July 21st 1992.  The tower and steeple remain, standing in splendid isolation, a prominent landmark for many miles around.  The bells, originally from the Abbey, survived the fire and were re-hung so their sound can once again be heard across the valleys.  From the lane which leads to the remains of Holy Trinity Church, there are magnificent views of Buckfast Abbey, Dartmoor and the Dart Valley.  East of the church are ruins of what might have been an ancient Chantry Chapel.  The ruins of the original Chapel date back to 1640, but nothing is known of its history.

Sherlock Holmes Connection

In the Churchyard, by the south door of the Church, is the metal-barred 'penhouse' tomb of the Cabells, once Lords of the Manor of Buckfastleigh.  Here lie Richard, his wife Susannah, and their son, also Richard.  In the caves which abound under the hill, there is a large stalagmite, which is directly under the tomb above.  There was also a third Richard, a grandson.  Which of these Richards was the one known as 'Dirty Dick', we are not sure.

Whoever he was, he earned the title because he was reputed to have ill-treated local people and the reason for the penthouse was to quieten his spirit or, as local people put it, "to keep him in". (In fact the Cabells were staunch Protestants and made life intolerable for the early non-conformists). Many legends, folk tales and stories of haunting have been added over the years, including the myth that he was so wicked, that fiends and black dogs breathing fire raced across Dartmoor and howled around his tomb. The Cabell family was the inspiration for the Sherlock Holmes novel, 'Hound of the Baskervilles'.

Church Steps

196 steps take you up to the Church ruins from Station Road.  Look out for the 'Wishing Steps'.  The stones of two steps are laid in the opposite direction from the others.  It is said that a secret wish, made while standing on these steps, will come true!

'There's a seat halfway up that could tell some stories!'

'More than a gossip went on there when everyone was young and frisky.'

Stalactites, bones and bats

Beneath the Church runs an extensive system of caves, where fossilised remains of sabre toothed tigers and woolly mammoths have been found, dating from the last interglacial period about 100,000 years ago.  Fossils and photographs of the cave are on show at the William Pengelly Cave Studies Centre in Russets Lane, (by appointment only).  The caves are home to an important population of Horseshoe Bats has been declared a Site of Special Scientific Interest. There is no public access to the Caves.

The Valiant Soldier - a time capsule

The Valiant Soldier in Fore Street is one of Buckfastleigh's great curiosities.  The building was a public house for over 120 years until it closed in 1965.  Nothing had been touched until it was bought by Buckfastleigh Trust  and turned into a visitor centre.  The bar remains complete, as it was in the 1940's and 50's, down to the optics, glasses, drinks and the small change in the till.  A rich cornucopia of

belongings were discovered, including 2 stuffed badgers  and a collection of twenties hats, still in their boxes, which are now on display.

The building may well date back to the Middle Ages.  The earliest recorded

reference to the Valiant Soldier name is in the 1841 census, where the pub is listed as being run by one William Foster, publican.  Foster was still running the Valiant Soldier in 1861, aged 80, and the yard behind the inn was known as Foster's Court, so it seems likely that the family held the Valiant Soldier for a very long time.

For more information and opening times, phone the visitor centre on 01364 644522

21st Century Buckfastleigh

The new St Luke’ Church was designed by Ronald Weeks, an architect who grew up in Buckfastleigh and is well-known for designing the Roman Catholic Cathedral in Bristol and the Severn Bridge. 

While the building is new, links with the past remain in St Luke’s, such as the restored Norman font from the ruined Holy Trinity Church and the stained glass window from the old

St Luke’s Church.  The Church was consecrated by the Bishop of Exeter in 2002.

The Wave Centre in Fore Street was set up by a group of enthusiasts who formed Buckfastleigh Boradband Ltd, with the aim of opening a public access computer centre - Wave.  With funding from the Department of Trade and Industry and South West Regional Development Agency, the object was to bring high-speed

communications to the town and give everyone access to the benefits of

computing.  It provides a relaxing bistro area, together with e-mail facilities,

graphics, audio, digital photography and video creation and editing facilities.

For more details, call 01364 643308 or Email: enquiries@buckfastleigh.net.

A Centre for Walking & Cycling

Situated on the edge of Dartmoor and lying on the Dartmoor Way, Buckfastleigh is an ideal base for walking and cycling.  There are endless possibilities for walking on Dartmoor: the famous Abbot's Way starts at Buckfast and the Two Moors Way and South Devon Millennium Trail pass through the outskirts of the Town.  You can discover more about the excellent walking on Dartmoor by joining a Dartmoor National Park Guided Walk.  Details of these walks are given in the Dartmoor Visitor, which is available at most tourist outlets.  The magnificent South Devon coast path is also easy to reach from Buckfastleigh.

In and around the Town, there are a number of local footpaths from which you can enjoy the beautiful countryside, woodlands and moorland views:-

Buckfast can be reached by a footpath from the top of Church Hill

Nearby Hembury Woods and Hill Fort are managed by the National Trust and provide magnificent woodland and riverside walks.  The woods are  particularly beautiful in Spring and Autumn.

Jordan Street, opposite the Waterman's Arms at the top of Market Street, leads to a number of walks, including Bilberry Hill or up to Button Farm. 

If you take the footpath through the wood, don't miss the 'secret garden' on the left as you enter the wood from the road. The owner of the garden kept  Skye terriers and knitted socks from their hair!

A Place to Stay…

Touring or walking, Buckfastleigh is an ideal place to stay.  Easily accessible by car or bus, visitors are welcomed with a wide selection of pubs, inns, hotels, camping/ caravan sites and guesthouses, offering good B & B and meals.    Buckfastleigh lies at the heart of Devon's Favourite attractions  - within walking distance are Buckfast Abbey, South Devon Railway, the Butterfly/Otter Sanctuary and the Valiant Soldier Visitor Centre.  Nearby is the Old Racecourse, with Point-to-Points held in February and March, and the award-winning Pennywell Farm.  The award-winning town centre is well worth a visit, with its attractive street frontages, craft shops, Farmers Market selling fresh organic produce, cafes and enticing

narrow alleyways. 

The town is well equipped with amenities - two public parks, a swimming pool, skate park, tennis courts, a bowling green and local shops.  The Town holds local events throughout the year - such as the  Farmers Market every Thursday, Lamb Pie day in the Spring, and the May Fun Day - and has many local stories and folklore for you to discover.  We hope you enjoy your stay and will come to see us again soon!

Buckfast Abbey

The Benedictine monks welcome visitors to their famous Abbey, set on the edge of Dartmoor, in the beautiful River Dart valley.  Founded in Saxon times, the Abbey grew in size and influence until the dissolution in 1539, when the monastery was closed and fell into ruin.  Monks settled again at Buckfast, 350 years later, drawn by the peace and sanctity of the site.  With just £5, a cart and horse loaned by a kindly neighbour and a load of stone, they set about raising the Abbey again, on its original foundations.  The magnificent Church was completed in 1938, and represents 32 years of labour by just 4 of the monks.

Today it is a thriving community, drawing its members from all over the world.  The monks make the famous tonic wine.  They also make stained glass windows, keep bees and run a farm. 

An Exhibition traces the remarkable story of the Abbey and there are shops which specialise in gifts, books, religious items, tonic wine and honey, as well as the Grange Tea Rooms and Restaurant.

South Devon Railway

The steam trains of the South Devon Railway link Buckfastleigh with the historic town of Totnes and cross some of Devon's most glorious scenery.  The trains run for

7 miles along the East bank of the River Dart.  This fast flowing salmon river has its origins high up on Dartmoor and becomes tidal near the station just outside Totnes.  Wildlife abounds in and around both river and railway.  Herons, swans, badgers, foxes, wild otters and the like are often seen.

Buckfastleigh Railway Station is now the terminal of the South Devon Railway steam trains.  The branch line was built in 1872 and originally ran along 9 miles of broad gauge from Totnes to Ashburton, once owned by the Great Western Railway.  The passenger service ceased in 1958 and the line was closed in 1962.

The Vintage Bus runs from the Station and enables passengers to visit the Abbey and Buckfastleigh Town Centre.  At the other end of the line, a footbridge provides access to the historic town of Totnes. 

The railway is run in traditional style by a registered charity and nearly all the staff are volunteers.